Known problems, Aygo, C1, and the Peugeot 107

People reviewing this car really like them or they don´t, there is really nothing in between. Some have had many problems and some doesnt have any and are enjoying the car.


Earier models has had some problems with engine start (startmotor).
A fix: putting a timer on the startrelay has been supplied to some of the owners. This makes it impossible to run the startengine to long (the startrelay timer stops it), and burn the electric motor.

 Many users report having problem with weak clutch mostly pre 2009 (facelift), (its a very common problem its the three wee straps that snap off one by one), then they fitted a Yaris clutch 190 mm instead of 180 mm diameter which does seam to hold together better (but still reading about lots of clutch problmens on the forums). Other known problems have been water intrusion and leaking waterpump on earlier models, also often resulting i beltfan replacement, pre facelift.
squeaky noise after clutch or hearing a grinding sound from the clutch. Common problems is release bearing / pressure plate failure,  clutch metal springs failing . Pilot bearing broken and the case that holds the disk can be broken too but from inside not the outside teethes.


somewhere in the shift linkage. Possible that there is not enough lubrication


 problem with a wheel bearing problem with a wheel bearing


pre-October 2008 107 models. In it they’ve recommended that the original 180mm clutch be replaced by a 190mm clutch to rectify premature wear, noise. and smell. They also recommend that the flywheel is checked due to fitting of a larger diameter clutch, and if required this also needs to be replaced.


water where the spare wheel goes in the back


The water comes in through the vents behind the rear bumper usually, generally the seal has split
Also check the seals of the lights, high level brake light, and the vent/hole under the catch inside the boot, then that leaves only the hatchback welt, or perhaps leakage from around the rear wiper spindle.






Some have reported MMT problems, I found this in a german forum:
 Here is the part number of the old control unit:
TOYOTA 89 530 – 700 10 … 6 L 01
AISIN 32 48 11 – 11 090 Here is the part number of the new control unit:

TOYOTA 89 530 – 700 90 
 
 rust forming on the underside of the car is crazy; exhaust especially rust.


 headlight go on the side of the road as the bumper needs to be removed to replace the bulb




 the interior light only come on when the driver’s door is opened


 for an example the right window, which can’t be moved from the drivers side. Was it a problem to put a second switch somewhere in reach point of the driver?




electric power steering ECU can break down, quite expensive to replace.


common problems are; poor door seals letting in water, front brake discs that corrode & wear prematurely & front windscreen wiper blades that only last a year

Engine
Petrol: 1KR-FE (gearbox: C551, C551A)
Piston slap, some cars rattled when cold and the engine has to be replaced.
Piston slap is when the piston has too much play against its cylinder bores. the piston moves too freely in the cylinder instead of tight. You could lose compression in cylinders as well. An indication of piston slap is a decrease in noise as the engine warms up
 3 cylinder engine, vibrate a lot and the friction coated piston gets lost the rattle begins to come.

Cost calculation by Adac - Aygo second place, Kia Picanto 1.0 first

The Triplets gets rated quite high in the car cost calculation list that Adac presents for minicars (kleinwagen). The Kia Picanto Attract with the 3 cylinder 1.0 winns. The Picanto uses the new Kappa 1.0 with Dual-CVVT technology. The engine also uses timing chain instead of belt, a big plus for me. The Kappa is using methods to reduce friction. A nice engine, which uses much of the same technology as the designed Daihatsu engine in the Toyota Aygo, Citroen C1 and Peugeot 107, which came to market 2005.
However, I dont like the ISG system (Idle Stop&Go). The ISG system automatically switches the engine off when the car is stopped in traffic and restarts the engine instantly when the driver wishes to move again, however looking on this with an engineers eyes, this should reduce the life of the start engine (don´t know which type this electric motor is) and tear the cogs at the flywheels. I would prefer to have a choice if I want to use it or not. A switch or something.

Picture from Adac

Read the PDF from ADAC yourself:
http://www.adac.de/_mmm/pdf/TOP10-Autokosten-Kleinstwagenklasse_48953.pdf

By the way: the Kia Picanto 1.0 Kappa engine is presented in this video:

Waterpump problems - leaking - Replace with better part

This information is ONLY for the petrol version (1KRFE engine), NOT the Diesel ( with waterpump SU001-00596).

The older models pre facelift has a bad waterpump construction. I think this was fixed when the new facelift version was released, around 2009.

Disclaimer: The information has been gathered trough Internet. I take no responsibility of the correctness of this post, do your own diligence.

The earlier versions of the triplets (Aygo, C1, 107) have had a bad engineering construction of the water pump. Many problems of leaking has been reported, this may cause failure of engine if not sorted out in time. This post is trying to sort out what kind of version of the water pump there is.

I think there are three versions available:

Mk1

version 24-1020 with metal sheet housing suitable for OE:

Toyota/Daihatsu 16100-09240, 16100-80003, 16100-09450, 16100-80001, 16100-97234/

Citroen-Peugeot 1201.H0

The metal sheet version has been supplied till 2009, the seal eventually will start to leak, checking the presence and condition of the seal will have to be done if the waterpump not has been changed yet and you are still on the first version of water pump.

Mk2

Some people claim there has been a Mk2 version, I don’t know anything about it. 16100-80007, this might be the same as the Mk3 version.. One person claims that this part I pressed and not as good as the Mk3. I would guess it might be casted or made in a CNC-machine.

Mk3

(this is the latest version, and has bolts of different lengths) manufactured from die casting, making it stronger and prevents leaking (thicker aluminum flange).. The torch setting for the bolts is 28 Nm.

version 24-1020 with aluminum housing suitable for OE:

Toyota/Daihatsu 16100-09530, 16100-80007/ Citroen-Peugeot 1201.L3

The water pump must be fixed on the engine block exclusively by means of the rights bolts because of the different thickness of the aluminum housing. Bolts length: 50mm, 45mm, and 20mm.

So if you are going to replace your waterpump, then the latest pump part number for later models (2005> is:

Toyota Water Pump 16100-09530

BoltsBolts 91551-00820 Qty 2
Bolt 91551-00845 Qty 1
Bolt 91551-00850 Qty 2

Pictures of the better construction (Mk3 version):

This waterpump fits:

Citroen C1 1.0 (ref. no. 1201.L3, 1201.J0)

Daihatsu Cuore VIII 1.0 / Sirion 1.0 (ref. no. 16100-80001)

Peugeot 107 1.0 (ref. no. 1201.L3, 1201.J0)

Subaru Justy 1.0 (ref. no 16100-80003)

Toyota Aygo 1.0 / Yaris 1.0 (ref. no. 16100-09530)

I would say: Go for the Toyota number, perhaps their parts comes from Quinton Hazel? Anyways there are waterpumps available from Quinton Hazel also. Fox example: QCP3667 (similar to the Mk3 version) ((BxHxT mm): 185x125x125 : 1050g )

Avoid: QCP3631 (looks like the first version, Mk1) (BxHxT mm): 185x125x125 weight: 900g )

987691 (BxHxT mm): 140x115x115, weight : 1060g ) (perhaps this is the Mk2 version??)

Read more here:

http://www.x1-autoteile.de/index.php?site=search&articlesearch=T226

Changing / Replace the Waterpump instruction:

Turn the steering wheels full right and lock the steering by removing the keys.

Slacken the drive belt & remove it:

A 14mm socket is needed for the uppermost main alternator pivot bolt, then use 12mm for the alternator adjusting clamp bolts so that the drive belt can be removed first. The waterpump is fixed with five 12 mm bolts.

If you wish you could perhaps try to save the coolant and reuse it. Your choice! Removing all the bolts holding the pump in place and try to catch what coolant you can with a bucket or something..

Make a note of which bolt went where, and check there length (if you can´t remember, write it down!
Make sure the engine block has all traces of gasket / sealant removed.

Bolt up the new water pump, remember the seal!, use torch 28 Nm (according to site I found, don’t trust me!)

Re-fit the drive belt and set to the correct tension.
Re-fill with coolant, turn heater to hot and bleed system.

Here are some pictures / photograph by "Uncle Bob" when he replaced his waterpump, hope your are ok with me lending the pictures Bob? You never know when does forum vanishes..Taken from the excellent forum:
http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=118041



See the pink spot, showing some minor leaks.




Here the pump is removed, showing the seal



Old Mk1 waterpump versus the new black Mk3

From the side view
Credit for photos goes to "Uncle Bob" from the Toyota Aygo Forum, thanks för documenting!

Pictures: Some screenshots also from

http://www.swag.de/uploads/media/SWAGprof_90994_Wasserpumpe_4c_GB_2011.pdf

http://www.kwp.it/public/info_tecniche/Water-Pumps-Pompe-Acqua_1020.pdf

Dismanteling Toyota Aygo in five hours

Three young men dismantled a Toyota Aygo in a couple of hours (5). The only help to guide was their course leader. This shows how simple the construction really is. Everything is made to be quick to assemble in the Kolin factory. Time is money..

To show the model’s fundamental simplicity, a team of apprentice technicians from Aylesbury Young Offenders Institution succeeded in reducing a regular road-going Aygo to its component parts in just five hours.

They used only standard tools and they had not worked on the Aygo model ever before according to this article.

Pictures taken from:

http://www.toyotagb-press.co.uk/protected/vehicles/releases/2005/38523toy.htm

The Toyota engineer has really tried to use a simpler construction techniques, and that  are key factors in achieving the best possible fuel economy. The car is really light, and the simple construction techniques makes it lose weight compared to other traditionally engineered cars.

For example the Yaris has 12 parts in its tailgate, vs. the Aygos tailgate uses glass and just one simple holder for the tailgate. This reduces weight (about 4 kg compared to the Yaris tailgate).

Continuing the comparison, on the five-door model of the Aygo, the rear doors each use seven fewer parts than on the Yaris. This i said to reduced the weight about 4 kg. This simple construction this saves weight, for example inside the car, the front seats with integrated headrests also have fewer components and probably weigh less than the Yaris seats.

The car is still tough: The car has got a 4 four-star rating for passenger crash protection in the official Euro NCAP testing.

Adac statistic for the Triplets: Aygo, 107, C1

The Triplets: Toyota Aygo, Citroen C1, Peugeot 107 statistic Adac 2010 (kleinwagen), minicars

It is always interresting to follow statistics from the german car club ADAC with 17 millions members (june 2010) has to say (Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e.V.)

The Toyota Aygo got first place, probably because of better support by the Toyota sellers.

Problems reported by Adac:

Bad battery

Broken start engine (especially year 2006)

Bad clutch

Water pump broken, leaking

Fuel hose leaking

Gearchangelink system broken

Generator problems

Screenshots taken from Adac:

http://www.adac.de/infotestrat/unfall-schaeden-und-panne/pannenstatistik/suchergebnis.aspx?pklid=1&pstatid=3&ReturnUrl=5uEyBA6KBgNKCARK55ZyBARCzNqr0u23BTXFzyqpzAcxCLRyzAa1CLRyzAZyC5X3xLErxLEz5uXFBARpzocy0gN8ym68C5X3xLE4HeN_

(just in case it gets removed)

Engine alternatives in ”The Triplets” (Toyota Aygo, Citroen C1 and Peugeot 107)

Two engines has been available to choose between, however I not sure the Toyota is available in diesel anymore..? Inputs is appreciated.

1. 4 cylinder 1.4 liter diesel engine: 2WZTV engine, (PSA developed)
2. 1 liter (996 cc), 3 cylinder petrol engine: 1KR-FE engine

My own interest is in the petrol version, so here goes:

The engine is assembled in Poland or Japan (according to wiki)

The engine comes from Toyota, but is designed by Daihatsu. The engine has been chosen “International Engine of the Year” 2007-2010 in the sub category below 1 liter engines.

The engine uses a Timing chain, so you won’t have to replace a belt. The chain will probably last many years before starting to get noise and will need to be replaced. The engine block is made of aluminum and uses Double Overhead Cam (DOHC). The fuel injection system is “multi-point”.

It has VVT-i technology and has 4 valves per cylinder (twelve in total). It produces 50 kW, which equals 50*1,36=68 Swedish Horse powers (hkr). It doesn’t produce mush carbon dioxide footprint either. Here in Sweden it is a “environment friendly car” and the road tax is therefore low on this type of car.

The engine is used in the following cars:

Daihatsu Sirion

Toyota Aygo

Citroën C1

Peugeot 107

Toyota Yaris (1 liter version, called Vitz in some parts of the world)

Toyota IQ

Subary Justy (2008-)

The engine is really small and weights only about 69 kg. Some Internet pages say 67 kg. Perhaps this number is without accessories.

Picture of Diesel engine, image from http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95553

  

Picture of petrol 1KR-FE, a 1.0 L (996 cc)1 liter:

http://www.sacarfan.co.za/wp-content/gallery/engine-of-the-year-2009/sacarfan-aygo-cutaway.jpg

First post - About the site..

This site will gather information regarding the three city models Toyota Aygo, Citroen C1 and Peugeot 107 (next model will be called 108, released 2012).

I think these car are interesting and fun little cars, and I like the concept of different cars with the same base plate and engine. I like the simple construction and that the cars are cheap to run and environmentally friendly. I also think the most problems have been sorted out now. The site will cover mostly the current models released in 2005.

I will try to keep the site updated, but some periods I may not post so frequently. I you have some interesting information you think I am interested in, don´t hesitate to contact me.

Excuse me for the English language, it is not my mother tongue.. I just thought more people would be interested in reading the information, therefore it is in English, instead of Swedish.