About the city models - Aygo, C1, 107/108: Problems

People reviewing this car really like them or they don´t, there is really nothing in between. Some have had many problems and some doesnt have any and are enjoying the car.

Earier models has had some problems with engine start (startmotor).
A fix: putting a timer on the startrelay has been supplied to some of the owners. This makes it impossible to run the startengine to long (the startrelay timer stops it), and burn the electric motor.

Many users report having problem with weak clutch mostly pre 2009 (facelift), (its a very common problem its the three wee straps that snap off one by one), then they fitted a Yaris clutch 190 mm instead of 180 mm diameter which does seam to hold together better (but still reading about lots of clutch problmens on the forums). Other known problems have been water intrusion and leaking waterpump on earlier models, also often resulting i beltfan replacement, pre facelift.
squeaky noise after clutch or hearing a grinding sound from the clutch. Common problems is release bearing / pressure plate failure, clutch metal springs failing . Pilot bearing broken and the case that holds the disk can be broken too but from inside not the outside teethes.

somewhere in the shift linkage. Possible that there is not enough lubrication

problem with a wheel bearing problem with a wheel bearing

pre-October 2008 107 models. In it they’ve recommended that the original 180mm clutch be replaced by a 190mm clutch to rectify premature wear, noise. and smell. They also recommend that the flywheel is checked due to fitting of a larger diameter clutch, and if required this also needs to be replaced.

water where the spare wheel goes in the back

The water comes in through the vents behind the rear bumper usually, generally the seal has split
Also check the seals of the lights, high level brake light, and the vent/hole under the catch inside the boot, then that leaves only the hatchback welt, or perhaps leakage from around the rear wiper spindle.

Some have reported MMT problems, I found this in a german forum:
Here is the part number of the old control unit:
TOYOTA 89 530 – 700 10 … 6 L 01
AISIN 32 48 11 – 11 090 Here is the part number of the new control unit:

TOYOTA 89 530 – 700 90

rust forming on the underside of the car is crazy; exhaust especially rust.

headlight go on the side of the road as the bumper needs to be removed to replace the bulb

the interior light only come on when the driver’s door is opened

for an example the right window, which can’t be moved from the drivers side. Was it a problem to put a second switch somewhere in reach point of the driver?

electric power steering ECU can break down, quite expensive to replace.

common problems are; poor door seals letting in water, front brake discs that corrode & wear prematurely & front windscreen wiper blades that only last a year

Engine
Petrol: 1KR-FE (gearbox: C551, C551A)
Piston slap, some cars rattled when cold and the engine has to be replaced.
Piston slap is when the piston has too much play against its cylinder bores. the piston moves too freely in the cylinder instead of tight. You could lose compression in cylinders as well. An indication of piston slap is a decrease in noise as the engine warms up
3 cylinder engine, vibrate a lot and the friction coated piston gets lost the rattle begins to come.

This information is ONLY for the petrol version (1KRFE engine), NOT the Diesel ( with waterpump SU001-00596).

The older models pre facelift has a bad waterpump construction. I think this was fixed when the new facelift version was released, around 2009.

Disclaimer: The information has been gathered trough Internet. I take no responsibility of the correctness of this post, do your own diligence.

The earlier versions of the triplets (Aygo, C1, 107) have had a bad engineering construction of the water pump. Many problems of leaking has been reported, this may cause failure of engine if not sorted out in time. This post is trying to sort out what kind of version of the water pump there is.

I think there are three versions available:

Mk1

version 24-1020 with metal sheet housing suitable for OE:

Toyota/Daihatsu 16100-09240, 16100-80003, 16100-09450, 16100-80001, 16100-97234/

Citroen-Peugeot 1201.H0

The metal sheet version has been supplied till 2009, the seal eventually will start to leak, checking the presence and condition of the seal will have to be done if the waterpump not has been changed yet and you are still on the first version of water pump.

Mk2

Some people claim there has been a Mk2 version, I don’t know anything about it. 16100-80007, this might be the same as the Mk3 version.. One person claims that this part I pressed and not as good as the Mk3. I would guess it might be casted or made in a CNC-machine.

Mk3

(this is the latest version, and has bolts of different lengths) manufactured from die casting, making it stronger and prevents leaking (thicker aluminum flange).. The torch setting for the bolts is 28 Nm.

version 24-1020 with aluminum housing suitable for OE:

Toyota/Daihatsu 16100-09530, 16100-80007/ Citroen-Peugeot 1201.L3

The water pump must be fixed on the engine block exclusively by means of the rights bolts because of the different thickness of the aluminum housing. Bolts length: 50mm, 45mm, and 20mm.

So if you are going to replace your waterpump, then the latest pump part number for later models (2005> is:

Toyota Water Pump 16100-09530

BoltsBolts 91551-00820 Qty 2
Bolt 91551-00845 Qty 1
Bolt 91551-00850 Qty 2

Pictures of the better construction (Mk3 version):

This waterpump fits:

Citroen C1 1.0 (ref. no. 1201.L3, 1201.J0)

Daihatsu Cuore VIII 1.0 / Sirion 1.0 (ref. no. 16100-80001)

Peugeot 107 1.0 (ref. no. 1201.L3, 1201.J0)

Subaru Justy 1.0 (ref. no 16100-80003)

Toyota Aygo 1.0 / Yaris 1.0 (ref. no. 16100-09530)

I would say: Go for the Toyota number, perhaps their parts comes from Quinton Hazel? Anyways there are waterpumps available from Quinton Hazel also. Fox example: QCP3667 (similar to the Mk3 version) ((BxHxT mm): 185x125x125 : 1050g )

Avoid: QCP3631 (looks like the first version, Mk1) (BxHxT mm): 185x125x125 weight: 900g )

987691 (BxHxT mm): 140x115x115, weight : 1060g ) (perhaps this is the Mk2 version??)

Read more here:

http://www.x1-autoteile.de/index.php?site=search&articlesearch=T226

Changing / Replace the Waterpump instruction:

Turn the steering wheels full right and lock the steering by removing the keys.

Slacken the drive belt & remove it:

A 14mm socket is needed for the uppermost main alternator pivot bolt, then use 12mm for the alternator adjusting clamp bolts so that the drive belt can be removed first. The waterpump is fixed with five 12 mm bolts.

If you wish you could perhaps try to save the coolant and reuse it. Your choice! Removing all the bolts holding the pump in place and try to catch what coolant you can with a bucket or something..

Make a note of which bolt went where, and check there length (if you can´t remember, write it down!
Make sure the engine block has all traces of gasket / sealant removed.

Bolt up the new water pump, remember the seal!, use torch 28 Nm (according to site I found, don’t trust me!)

Re-fit the drive belt and set to the correct tension.
Re-fill with coolant, turn heater to hot and bleed system.

Here are some pictures / photograph by "Uncle Bob" when he replaced his waterpump, hope your are ok with me lending the pictures Bob? You never know when does forum vanishes..Taken from the excellent forum:
http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=118041